We were a bit of a sight. Prince William was in New London for the weekend and docked downwind of us, so we reached out our sail and skipped over to say hello. A friend of mine from the 2004 Voyage of Understanding was working on board as a deckhand, and she gave a big wave as all the other PW crew stood and stared, bewildered, at our stupid little craft.
Then the adventure started. We had to get back to the Gamage, which was directly upwind though only about 1/8th of a mile away. We left the PW on a starboard tack, across the traffic lane to nearly the other side of the harbor. We tacked across the channel three or four times, and being a vessel under sail, had right of way over all the other vessels. At one point, when cutting back across the channel towards Gamage with small fishing boats zooming past, we were caught between two gigantic incoming and outgoing ferries. We were making about one to one and-a-half knots. The ferries go 15 to 20. It was a bit disconcerting at first, but according to the rules of the road they had to yield and they did, slowing down, allowing us to amble by. We made it back after the better part of an hour at this, laughing at how ridiculous (inconvenient) we must’ve seemed to the other boaters. Being out in the channel with Gecko was like trying to go down the freeway on one roller skate.
6/29
Last week we had a group of boy scouts on board, a total blast. They took to the ship and ship-life immediately. When ashore they were a bit of a spectacle, though. They would hoot and holler at every young-ish, attractive-ish female they came across. Ridiculous. All the crew and chaperones would shake their heads and shush them, but it was no good. They were boy scouts, and were dead-set on repelling any and all women in the vicinity. Fun group, though.
During the trip we passed by Newport, RI, where ships were gathering for the tall ships festival this weekend, which will be followed by a parade. As the ships were coming in we saw Marine 1, the presidential helicopter, carrying President Bush to the festival. We continued on.
7/1
Today is my birthday. I am 24. We were in Newport, RI, for the tall ships parade. Spirit of Massachusetts came close alongside and my Uncle Bert, who was on board Spirit, bellowed, “Happy birthday, Ben!” I had been working on something on deck, and was surprised to hear his voice, as I had not seen them coming up, nor did I know he was out with them. We shouted greetings to each other across the water, and then he directed both ships in singing “happy birthday.” They veered off to get into their parade position, and I got back to work.
As all the ships were milling about in the Narragansett bay, waiting for the parade to begin, we got a glimpse of what the coast of New England might have looked like a century ago, minus the power boats and motor yachts of course.
While in the parade we passed right by the Picton Castle. I was aloft on the main mast at the time, and sent my greetings to the deck of my former home, which were received by smiling friends and returned in kind. Blue skies, Beautiful tall ships everywhere, friends and family, one of the best birthdays ever.
Pride of Baltimore II
Bluenose II, skippered by the one and only Phil Watson, onetime 1st mate of the Picton Castle.
Love to you Phil.
Schooner Virginia
Barque Gloria, the flagship of Columbia
A view of the bay as it once may have been. Picton Castle is the small black barque in the center.
7/4
Yesterday we were anchored in Vineyard Haven of Martha’s Vineyard, MA. We toured the Gannon and Benjamin boatyard, one of the more renowned boatyards on the coast. We got a good glimpse of why, too. We saw a 60 foot schooner in the shop, being mostly assembled, and even though unfinished, it was one of the most beautiful looking boats I had ever seen.
We bumped into Mary Ann from the Picton Castle while on shore. They were anchored in New Bedford for the night, and she and a friend took a ferry to the island for the day. She gave me a big Nova Scotian hug and we laughed and caught up while the kids went on ahead. She said yes, she had seen me aloft at the parade and was waving, and that so and so say hi, and nobody will believe that we bumped into each other, and we must have our picture taken together as proof. She is such a fantastic lady. Not a sour bone in her body. It was good to see her.
I have never been to Martha’s Vineyard before. It is very nice. It’s a great place to be white. There is absolutely zero cultural diversity. They have mastered the art of the traditional white-American lifestyle. It looked like the set of Leave it to Beaver, or The Truman Show, or something. It was jam packed for the 4th of July.
Cheyenne, Shayma, and I went out to dinner with Cheyenne’s friend, Max, a former Ocean Classroom student and native of the island. He started working at the Gannon and Benjamin boatyard at age 11, sailed with Cheyenne on the Gamage as a high-schooler, and has been around the sea his whole life, a natural born salt.
I listened as they shared stories about old shipmates, mates and captains, about people with names like “Snark,” “Sterling,” or “Bobby Blood.” Sailor names. We ate and talked for the better part of three hours before parting ways; us back to Gamage and Max to his girlfriend.
Today we have set sail, headed out to Provincetown, being pushed by a beautiful, warm breeze.
Storms expected for tonight. 30 knot winds, 12 foot seas, a nice fresh blow. Right now we are making five knots with our main, fore, and stays’l set
Dolphins came and played after dinner, meinke and humpbacks this afternoon. We saw a family of humpbacks breach a good dozen or so times a few hundred yards off our port side. It was beautiful to see it, but almost equally fun was watching the kids ooh and ahh and squeal each time the gigantic black head would shoot up out of the water, exposing the grooves of its mammoth grey underbelly before splashing back down into the seas.
7/5
The squalls came. Cheyenne and I were on watch for the worst of it. We had sustained winds of 35 knots with gusts over 40. Pretty lumpy. We lost a lid to one of our deck boxes when the starboard rail went under water.
Most of the kids sat on the deckhouse, shivering in the stinging rain while Cheyenne and I stood on the quarterdeck, eating pb&j sandwiches, grinning.As the wind reached its highest point we struck the stays’l. I went out to get a quick stow of the sail and prevent it from flapping to shreds or dragging in the ocean. To do this I had to lean over the stays’l club (essentially a small boom) and gather up the whipping sheet of canvas. I balanced my hips against the club, hanging out over the starboard side, as waves and foam were washing over the rail and nothing separating me from the ocean besides my balance and fistful of sail.
After getting the thing under control I went back to the quarterdeck, big smile on my face and said to Chey, “that was fun.” It was one of those times where I absolutely love doing what I do. I never once felt overwhelmed or frightened, just filled with adrenaline and the thrill of working comfortably in conditions that six months prior would have scared the snot out of me.
7/7
I have moments while onboard ships. It’s hard to explain them without sounding corny or selling them short.
Yesterday evening I was lying on top of the deckhouse looking up the main mast, at the junction of timber, rope and tar; all shrouds, all lines, all canvas met at this point, the pinnacle of the rig.
I felt then as I have in other moments a brief loss of self. My worries and desires faded out and all I cared about was being on the ship and being part of the ship, and working the ship, because as I worked the ship I made her better and in turn make myself better too.
7/10
Finished with another program. We are in Maine and will spend the next three days here doing maintenance. I love Maine. Mountains of pine forests punctuated with sheer cliffs and ocean. My family is meeting me here. I am excited about getting some quality time with them. As we grow older, it’s great to see how we all can have so much fun together. Should be good times. Also, I plan on seeing Transformers. I haven’t been this excited about a movie in a long, long time.
As the afternoon wore on the whales approached closer and closer, getting braver and taking curious looks at all of us. At one point there were three or four humpbacks right next to the boat. I wanted so badly to jump over the side and ride on one of their great broad backs. Some more pictures:
I had one of those moments I so often have had in these past months and was a bit dumb-struck at the places my job takes me, and what an unbelievable blessing every day at sea has been, even the tough days.
It is incredible how much the lives of the people in Gloucester have been wrapped up in the sea. The sea is their livelihood, their source of food, their platform for greatness, and the prime author of their tragedies. They are so holistically intertwined with the sea that not even their quest for relationship with God can escape it. As a sea-sensitive soul myself I appreciate this heartily. I have been in love with Gloucester since I came here the first time ten years ago. Glad to get back. Everyone needs to go. If I ever get married I want to have it in this church. If you notice in this last picture, the walls are lined with models of fishing vessels, schooners, and other kinds. Just like all those wrapped up in crossing waters, it is impossible for me to separate seafaring from spirituality. 
Owl's Head Light, outside Rockland, ME.
As the afternoon wore on the whales approached closer and closer, getting braver and taking curious looks at all of us. At one point there were three or four humpbacks right next to the boat. I wanted so badly to jump over the side and ride on one of their great broad backs. Some more pictures: 
