June 2, 2007

First Week on Gamage Plus Mild Insanity

5/28
Today we set sail. It was my first time sailing on the Harvey Gamage since the summer before my 8th grade year, ten years ago. It was a lot of fun having some grasp this time around of the goings-on on deck and with the sails. I have enjoyed also my first day out with the kids. We have a group of sophomores from an all-boys school in Connecticut. They have a great energy, and love to growl and grunt every time we trim jib sheets or haul on halyards. They eat a lot too. One of them farts.
In the afternoon I got to spend a fair amount of time monkeying around on the main gaff tops’l, unfouling the tack and releading the brail. I started to feel fairly confident and good about myself after that, only to be sent up later to stow the same sail and struggling mightily, ultimately requiring the help of one of my compassionate crewmates who shuffled up the shrouds to show me how it’s done.It seems to be the way of a burgeoning sailor. Just when you are beginning to feel a bit of a hold on things, the ever punctual sea fates send along a lesson in humility and bid you take notes. Sometimes after these kinds of episodes, as I silently berate myself and hate my inexperience, I half expect to see King Triton from The Little Mermaid, in all his bearded glory, emerge from the swells with a dry erase board and diagram all the different ways in which I am an idiot. He would probably draw out a Venn diagram and say, “these are all the things you and good sailors do not have in common. Number one: can furl the main gaff tops’l on the Harvey Gamage. Number two: is a good sailor. These are all the things you and good sailors do have in common: smell bad, unkempt, dirty fingernails, no financial assets.” Thankfully, the good king was once again gracious enough to remain below the spumey ocean surface, tormenting me only psychically, and prior to this blog entry, privately. Now the whole world knows. I am followed around the ocean by a fictional cartoon merman king who likes to rub my nose in my mistakes. Hey, if Joshua Slocumb can publish serious accounts of his ship being steered by the ghost of the helmsman of the Nina, then I can tell about this. If I start seeing spots or talking to my neighbor’s black lab named Sam, then I will be worried. So far, though, nothing to report on those fronts.
After dinner I got to put my celestial navigation know-how to the test, offering a brief, 30 minute overview of the basic concepts. The kids all got to take sights of the sun, and I drew diagrams on a whiteboard. They are only on for four days, so we won’t have much time to go into depth, but the hope is that it piques their interest, and maybe in these short lessons they can find something that piques their inner salt and pulls them back to sea for more voyages.
As the sun was setting we came alongside fellow Ocean Classroom vessel the Spirit of Massachusetts. We zigged and zagged with each other for a short bit of fun, and finally pulled along her port side, the sky catching fire behind her at just the right moment. Pictures were taken.


6/2
Finished the first week of the summer. The kids were a blast. We only had four days together, but I got to have some really good conversations with some of them, and it was exciting to see some of the universal lessons that sailing can teach take hold in that short time. If my time on Picton Castle was comparable to my “sailing college,” being an absolute blast and shooting my learning curve through the roof, then my time with Ocean Classroom should prove to be more along the lines of my vocational sailing.
The past two days were spent doing maintenance here in New London, CT. It’s a nice little town on the northern coast of the state. The funny thing about small towns is that coastal ones are usually very nice. Inland ones, save for in the mountains, can be rather depressing. Though, maybe it’s just my bias showing through.
Pirate Master aired Thursday, and I missed it. I went to a bar in New London called the Roadhouse and turned on the TV just as it was flashing, “A Mark Burnett Production” on the tail end of the closing credits. I think they changed the times of the show, because my family almost missed it too. Fortunately, the earth continued spinning, and babies still laugh – especially babies who watch Pirate Master.
I have tonight and tomorrow off, so I am hanging out in Rhode Island with my Uncle Bert, Aunt Donna, and cousins Victoria and James. Should be a good time of fun, food, and laundry. (Internet, too, obviously)
I found though, if last week is any indicator, that I may not have as much time for writing while onboard the Gamage as I did onboard the Picton Castle. We will see how everything pans out, but I brought along a Writer’s Market and other freelancing and writing guides in anticipation of getting more serious with it. I am still working out the wrinkles of my new career as sailor/writer. I would like it to be somewhat balanced, but thus far it has been more SAILOR/writer.
At the very least, I am in a good predicament: how do I do all the things I love? There is never enough time. I know this is true because every time I say it in conversation with someone older and wiser than me they just shake their heads and give a weak laugh and a shrug. This is a good measuring stick. The more adamant their surrendering laugh, the deeper the following sigh, the more profoundly true the preceding statement. But it only works with profound or universal truths. Simply saying, “the prequels to Star Wars should never have been made,” though painfully true, will not trigger the same response.
Holy cow. This blog entry is quickly devolving into an exercise in tangents. I am tired. I varnished the jib-boom and repaired rigging all day. I am going to bed.

May 27, 2007

Pickle Relish, Boston, and The Laz

5/24
I am headed out for a summer on the Schooner Harvey Gamage. After signing off the Picton Castle I spent a week catching up with friends (not nearly enough time) and family (even less time). I did my best to make the most of my short time ashore, but my apologies to all, as I did not get to spend the amount of time with all my loved ones that they deserve. That’s life, I suppose. Never enough time to spend a day or so with everyone.
While home I was able to take in all the staples of Kansas City in May: barbecue, Winsteads at the Plaza, McCoy’s in Westport, and even a Royals game. I’m not a real baseball nut, but Kaufman stadium is a beautiful ballpark, and seeing the Royals always brings back memories of being a kid. Fittingly, I went with two longtime friends, Tim and Elliott.


Probably the finest picture of me ever taken in the history of anything.

One of the more exciting happenings at the game, besides Mike Sweeney’s two-run homer or Zach Grienke’s 1 2/3 scoreless innings to clinch the game, was the hot dog race. It’s a masterpiece of idiocy, and loaded with the same kind charm as a toddler wandering nude into his parent’s social gathering. People dressed as giant hot dogs, each wearing a red, yellow, or green hat that represented ketchup, mustard or pickle relish respectively, ran a foot race from the foul pole in right field to home plate. The crowd was electric. Relish won.

I also made it to a baseball game in Oklahoma City last Saturday. Being only my second day back in America, it was one of the more intense “welcome back to America” moments. We were bombarded with advertisements relentlessly, and mini exhibitions between each inning meant to entertain. Periodically a notable Oklahoman like American Idol star Carrie Underwood or the governor would come on the JumboTron and deliver a heartfelt message to the troops overseas, saying words like freedom, and sacrifice, noble, and proud. Immediately following one of these tributes, the governor’s I think, with the screen still fading out, the P.A. system starts blasting with the Funky Chicken.
Also at the OKC Redhawks games is a cannon that shoots t-shirts (even weirder, at Kaufman in KC there is a bazooka that launches hot dogs into the crowd). Having just come from spending nearly three months either at sea or in a third world country (Dominca), It was strange to think that some very rich, powerful people got together and had a meeting in which they discussed seriously the need for a cannon that shoots wadded up t-shirts (or hot-dogs for that matter). In Dominica, conversely, when they get the wealthy and powerful people in a meeting together I have a feeling they would probably rather discuss their need for, say, an economy. The wonders of civilization: ceaselessly amazing, frequently dumbfounding.
Also, the word is out about what we were doing for those two months in Dominca. Officially, I can divulge somewhat openly without fear of a $5 million lawsuit. We filmed the new CBS reality show, “Pirate Master.” It is intended to be the next Survivor, and it is basically the same formula, just put in the context of a pirate adventure rather than a bunch of strangers moping around on a beach.

Of particular interest to me was one of the 16 contestants. Former Kansas City Chief running back, Christian Okoye, was onboard as a “pirate,” and I was thrilled. I had little fireworks go off inside me every time I got to show him something about sailing the ship or told a joke that made him laugh. Just seeing him haul on a line or heave on the windlass was a trip because you got to see just how big and strong he really was. I can’t imagine ever having to tackle him. He is huge. My friend Erin called him “Gigantor.” To cap it off, I got to sit and talk with him for 20 minutes or so at the end of everything, and he is a really nice guy. The ten year-old kid in me was on cloud nine while I talked football with one of the biggest football legends in KC history.
All in all, it was a pretty cool experience. The show airs Thursday, May 31st, on CBS. I want everyone to watch it and see the ship. She looks awesome. She legitimizes the whole pirate theme. If not for the Picton Castle, the show would lose a lot of its cool-factor.



5/25
My first day on the Gamage is over. Spent the morning doing ships laundry in a Laundromat here in Boston. The remarkable thing about Boston is that everything is historic. There is a plaque on every third building saying “Alexander Hamilton had tea here once,” or “Benjamin Franklin got drunk here a lot” (which, honestly, could be posted all over Boston and Philadelphia with reasonable confidence).
Historicity Saturation Exhibit A: We are docked where the famous Boston Tea Party took place so many years ago.
Exhibit B: Boston Harbor still brown.
Exhibit C: While walking from the Laundromat to a convenience store for a bevvy (beverage), I happened past the Old North Church where the signal was lit which sent Paul Revere on his famous ride, inspiring an equally famous song by the Beastie Boys. Boston really is a cool place, though. I have hoofed through a good bit of downtown, and the whole place has a very unique, cool feel. Though I’m sure it’s a tough place to navigate. Thankfully I have always been shepherded around by savvier crew mates when on shore
In the afternoon I overhauled the blocks on the main sheet and fore throat halyard, greasing the sheaves and pins, and rubbing linseed oil into the wood. One of the blocks had been worn down so severely it had to be fortified with a good deal of epoxy, which I then sanded and filed down into proper block shape. All in all good day’s work. Tomorrow I am going to clean out and organize our aft storage space known as the lazarette, or “laz” for short.
I am looking forward to this summer. The crew is friendly and enthusiastic without exception, always a good work environment.
Below is a picture of the Gamage I took about eight years ago while on the Lettie G. Howard. It gives a good idea of what the rig of the ship is like (schooners are vastly different than barques), besides, it’s one of my proudest pictures.

May 18, 2007

Dominica to Charleston

4/28
Today we set sail from Dominica to Martinique, about 30 miles away, going to pick up 20 new trainees for the passage back to the U.S. All are glad to see Dominica disappear behind us. It is a lovely island with lovely people, but a change of scenery is a bit overdue and we are glad to be sailing again. We were escorted on our departure by a small pod of dolphins under our headrig.

As we were approaching the north side of Martinique, a bit of a squall blew through and I was at the helm. Guiding the ship through the foam-capped swells with warm wet needles stinging my face, I looked over the ship, at her rigging, her crew, even the small details like the turk’s head woven around the kingspoke on the wheel, and was for a moment overwhelmed with emotion at being onboard such a powerful thing created wholly for crossing seas, crew included. It’s good to be here.
Bittersweet, we had to leave our friend Rudolph behind on Dominca. He was our driver while ashore, and accompanied us everywhere we went. He is a wonderful man with a fantastic laugh and an extremely generous demeanor and we were sad to say goodbye. We presented him with some parting gifts, hugs and tears. For the past week he has been telling us how badly he will miss us, and we all feel the same. He really has been a great friend and the promise of a reunion makes any return visit to Dominica that much more exciting. On the bright side, the cricket world championships are today and he will get to sit at home and watch every bowl without any calls from us for a run into town or to Trafalgar falls.
One of the things I have gotten to enjoy with so much time ashore here has been the introduction to cricket. I have watched a few matches and though it is not my sport of choice, it is fun to be able to talk cricket with the locals, Rudolph and Donald our Grenadine cook especially.
Also in the sports world, today is the NFL draft and I am missing it. I can’t remember the last time I missed the NFL draft. I am fairly disappointed, but at least I have a good excuse. I am glad that my sailing off-season will coincide with the football season. The prospect of missing football season is not a happy one, and I will make sure to take in as many games as possible this year because who knows what I will be doing next season. I try not to think about it too much.
The Chiefs have been going kind of crazy this off-season, from what little I can tell. Re-signing Donnie Edwards (yes!), trading Dante Hall (sad, but probably a good move), and uncertainty regarding the futures of Trent Green and Jared Allen. I hope we draft a cornerback. DeAndre Jackson from Iowa State is a good choice… please? Also, still holding out for some blockbuster trade for Seneca Wallace. *sigh*
Well, that’s enough sports for this sailing blog. Thanks for indulging me. Probably a post draft entry on the way as well, but I won’t apologize. The first step to recovery is admitting you have a problem, so I confess to nothing.

4/31
Disappointed with the Chiefs’ draft. Hopefully they know something I don’t, but in the typical second-guessing-sports-fan fashion, I doubt it.

5/2
Left Martinique yesterday afternoon after the last of the new trainees arrived, about 12 in all. Martinique is a beautiful island. It is a part of France, and hardly any English is used, so I was always at the heel of a French-speaking crewmate. With a Picton Castle voyage to Europe being planned for next year, and my tentative hopes to be crew for it, I am certainly lacking no motivation to learn some fundamental bits of the language. Despite the barrieaux l’Francais (sic? Probably…) I enjoyed the afternoon I got to spend on shore. Nice cheeses and French baguette are always good even if you do need someone else to order it for you.

We are making about seven knots on our way to Jost Van Dyke, a part of the British Virgin Islands. The ship has some friends in Jost who, not surprisingly enough, manage establishments that specialize in the sale and distribution of strong spirits, cold beers, and (so I am told) some of the world’s most magical pina coladas. I have also been told that it is impossible to stay sober while on Jost, but bear in mind that the person reporting this could probably say the same about a Good Friday service. I will do my best.
We will be there for four or five days, and since the island is also known for its fantastic diving spots some of the crew and I are planning on taking a SCUBA dive outing.
Today I got my first lessons in celestial navigation from Doc, a retired heart surgeon and our ship’s physician. He is an avid sextanteer, and the second I mentioned I was interested in it he was emerging from below with his almanacs and sextant and (not kidding) a textbook for me. It has been so far all that I had hoped it would be. It is a method that, though still very mysterious, is not nearly as much today as yesterday. I am beginning to grasp just how to use the mathematical tools and plug each cog into its appropriate slot, but the theory behind the geometry is still a bit beyond me. Today we took a noon sighting of the sun, and my measurement turned out to be just over ten minutes of latitude off, which Doc assured me is very accurate. So far so good. We will do another sun plot this afternoon and hopefully some star sightings at dusk. From those plots of latitude Doc says we will be able to calculate our longitude. It is a totally fascinating experience, simultaneously cross-eyed-complex and then stupid-simple.
In a more personal note: I took a shower today. Haven’t done that for a few days now, and I needed it. My hair is getting long and sun-bleached, and all the funny little curls tend to get tangled and make shampooing a lot more interesting. Being on a ship does weird things to one’s hygiene sensibilities. Before, I couldn’t start or finish a day without bathing at least once. Now, any more than once every three days and I feel like a diva. Not sure why that’s pertinent to the blog, but it struck me today and I wrote it, and I am the one with the password anyhow, so there. Now the whole world knows the condition of my armpits.
Peace out.

5/8
Left Jost today. It was about the epitome of what someone thinks about when imagining the Virgin Islands; restaurants and bars right on beaches with sand so white and water so clear you have to wade out 20 feet before it starts to turn turquoise. For the five days we were in the BVI’s, private yachts would come and go, passing us by with their necks craned, all with the same fascinated/awed/slightly terrified expressions pasted across their faces. They cruise around on their (mostly) rented yachts rigged for convenience and come up on our black hulled monstrosity with shrouds coated in only slightly more tar than the crew, and rigged with time tested traditions and hand-worked materials.
One group of yachties (that what they are called around here) came by in their motor boat and asked for a tour. We obliged and I, right out of the rigging after tarring the shrouds on the mizzen mast, was apparently a suitable exhibit for one of them as he raised his camera and proceeded to photograph me. He kept his distance and didn’t address me once, though I probably didn’t make myself a welcoming presence, snarling pirate-like and posing as he clicked away. Even to my crewmates, the combination of sweat, tar and dirt on me and my work-clothes was remarkable, so to this man of bread-dough flesh, caterpillar moustache, Bermuda shorts, floral shirt and bright red cap, I may have been some degree of horrifying.
A funny thing as well, after putting baby oil in my hair to rub out the tar that had dripped, my hair sat on my head with enough shaggy greasiness to impress even the most downtrodden of vagrants. As the work day ended and cold beers were unveiled, another skiff-full of yachties intrepidly approached. At the prodding of my crewmates, I stood on the rail, bottle of Red Stripe in my left hand, shook my raised right fist, and screamed a guttural barrage of gibberish that brought laughter from my mates and an about-face from the oncoming skiff. Inhospitable, unprofessional, bad P.R. and probably the wrong move, but a lot of fun and enjoyed by all (including the chief mate, to my relief).
I didn’t get to do any diving, but it is a small regret. My time on Jost was an absolute blast, hanging out with crewmates, eating fantastic food (crab cakes, conch fritters, and pepperoni pizzas: all amazing) relaxing on the beach, swimming, talking, swinging on the tire swing at Ivan’s Stress Free Bar (a place where there is a fully stocked bar, but no proprieter; drinks are poured and paid for on the honor system), and dancing at Foxy’s till ridiculous hours.

Our last night we anchored off a small island called Sandy Cay, privately owned by a friend of Captain’s, and had a bonfire. It was the perfect way to cap off our time in the Caribbean. We sat and talked, played guitar, and watched as some of the more energetic of us lit up palm fronds and took off running down the beach, followed by a floating trail of orange embers. As the night wore on, many of these palm frond frolics were accompanied by glowing white butts as well.
Sad to go, but I am excited for the next stage. Always a good place to be in life: loving where I am, and loving where I am going. Hopefully I can keep it up.

5/9
Today on my watch, the 4-8 watch, we were greeted by the proverbial red sunrise, and the omen, though not too dramatically, was fulfilled as we spent the entire day running before squally weather, with warm rains dampening us as soon as we had dried off from the previous one. We steered Northwest all day. The wind is coming just over our port quarter, only a couple points off of a straight run. We are making about six knots, which is pretty nice speed for this ship.
Sunset was spectacular. The western sky, though mostly cloudy, was lit up in neon pink so brilliant that it could make one wonder if instead of sending Jesus to come from the heavens and redeem the faithful, God had sent Elvis. Of course, if one did wonder that, one would be a moron. I took about 20 pictures. Here are some of the better ones:


5/14
Today I was tired. Last night we held one of the Picton Castle’s traditional Sunday night marlinspikes. A marlinspike, named after the rigging tool, is a party held normally every Sunday but due to our strange schedule we only have had two previous in the past two-and-a-half months. What happens at a marlinspike? We make a few jugs of rum-punch, loads of popcorn, turn on the stereo, and dance on the hatch. Since we were underway, though, the rum punch was imbibed with much greater moderation. The theme of last night’s marlinspike was “goodbye tropics, hello Charleston.” Most people dressed either southern/white trash, or tropical (one lady, Mary Ann, a spirited 69 year-old trainee and one of my favorite crewmates, chose to dress as a Bedouin man, complete with sharpie-goatee and sharpie moustache. I went more the route of greasy redneck. Mission accomplished. I shaved my beard into handlebar moustache and big chops, greased my hair, and wore a torn-up tank top and ratty boxers. The others confirmed that I looked right out of a shanty in the boonies. The girl on the right is Nadia, one of the other deckhands, tropical themed.


By lunch, however, the handlebars and chops were gone, death by Gillette, to the disappointment of some and applause of others (including me, which is why I did it in the first place). After shaving, I went to my bunk, slept till lunch, ate, then slept till my watch at four. I was worn out from all the dancing the night before (not from rum-punch, I was on watch for the rum part of the party) and a long workday prior as well. Not to mention the giant water fight we had yesterday afternoon, spraying each other with fire hoses and dumping buckets of sea-water on the unsuspecting. It was a fun way to cool off, as the previous few days were really hot. The day before yesterday we had what is called a “power shower.” We hung a fire hose from the main shrouds and everyone got in their bathing suits and lathered up. Also a lot of fun. Thankfully, today was nice and cool; warm sun with a slight chill in the breeze.
We are pretty well settled into our routine now for the passage. I wake up every day at four AM and am on watch till breakfast at eight. Our watch is responsible for daily deckwashes, polishing the brass, and various other cleaning projects. One of my duties is to make sure to fill the captain’s log and plot our position on the charts at every hour. I really like the chart work. Navigation is a part of sailing that is really exciting to me.
I’ve been doing a lot more of the celestial navigation as well. I am starting to get the hang of it. The process is getting more and more familiar every day, and I am beginning to field the questions of other curious shipmates.
The puppies are getting big. They don’t fit under the vegetable lockers as easily as before, and from time to time get stuck in things they used to breeze through. Right now their favorite game is called “Is This Food?” Normally they lose.
We are just west of Great Bahama Island, about to come north and catch the gulf stream current which we will ride up into Charleston, just a few days away. It has been a great trip so far, and I will be sad to leave the ship, but hope for a return as soon as possible.

5/15
Big seas yesterday and today. Eight foot swells, 20 knot winds, half the crew sick. I am having fun though. Last night a very big wave crashed over the starboard side of the fo’c’sle-head deck and came in through the fo’c’sle hatch, flooding two bunks and dampening most of the rest. Lucky for me, my bunk only got a splash. The two forward-port bunks however were completely drenched. Logan, in the upper port forward bunk, looked as though he just crawled out of the ocean when he rolled out of his bunk. Not a nice way to wake up in the middle of the night.
We arrive in Charleston on Thursday, and I am not ready to go, though I am excited about seeing my family, the promise of a couple days in Kansas City, and then the summer as a deckhand on the Harvey Gamage, the ship of my inaugural voyage at sea.
Even if it was only for a week, the short time I spent on the Gamage in the summer of 1997 was a life changing one for me, and I am excited about the promise of sharing a similar experience with all the other young voyagers who come on board this summer.
Most of our time has been various ship work and maintenance, getting the Picton Castle pretty for the tall ships festivals. I am gaining confidence with my celestial navigation abilities, and even trouble-shooting the calculations myself when something doesn’t come out right. I’m not an expert yet, but if I needed to do it to save my life, I think I might actually manage it.

5/18
Well, the trip is over. I am in the airport waiting for my flight to Kansas City. I am sad to go. Very sad. Consolations come from the upcoming endeavor on the Harvey Gamage, and the near certainty that I will be back with the Picton Castle as soon as possible. I think this ship may be my sailing college; a ship I can always go back to with the assurance of becoming a better sailor and having an absolute blast with one of the most skilled and fun crews in the world. For now, though, the rest and barbeque will be a welcome treat before my next step. Thanks to all from the Picton Castle, and I look forward to reporting my new experiences in youth training onboard a very different yet equally magnificent ship. Holy cow, how did I get into this gig? I mean, with my journalism degree, I could be writing obituaries or formatting police blotters for a local newspaper right now! Maybe I should take this week off to rethink some things.
Maybe not.

April 24, 2007

More Dolphins and New Shipmates




















4/18
The past few weeks we have fallen into relatively predictable routine with everything. The charter business has been humming along steadily and is almost finished. I am becoming a more capable sailor each day. Climbing and working aloft is a pleasure now, and no longer a test of nerve and will like it used to be. I still have a lot to learn and still seem to have little brain farts more frequently than I would like (about one or two a day), but I feel pretty confident of my ability on deck and aloft. Hopefully the passage to South Carolina brings with it opportunities to learn more of the finer arts of sailing like navigation, particularly celestial navigation. The mate assured me I would get all the lessons I could handle.
A few days ago we had two new crew additions come aboard: puppies. Two of our crew members found them abandoned near a bar and after asking everyone around they decided that the pups were homeless and brought them aboard – with captain’s permission of course. After a couple days we finally decided on names. The white one, a girl, is named Foxy, and the spotted one, a boy, is named Louie.



Foxy looked pretty rough the first day, and we are pretty sure she has worms so a trip to the vet will happen by the end of the week. That first night she trembled and shook so bad she spent most of her time curled up, managing a few wobbly steps here and there. With each day she has been getting better and is now as sweet and curious and playful as a puppy should be.
It is funny to see the whole crew gather around and watch them play, mesmerized. Whenever they do any little thing right, we all cry out with a collective “hooray!”


















The puppies stop what they are doing and give us a funny look, mirroring the captain, who sticks his head in from time to time, equal parts amused and impartial.

Today, though, was probably the most difficult day so far. We were all on very little sleep, spent most of our day idly standing by (one of the best ways I have found to manipulate the space-time continuum and bring all time to a near standstill), and it was one of the hottest days so far, no thanks to an absent breeze that left the air heavy and stagnant. When we weren’t idle we were hauling on the windlass, the giant hand crank that raises the anchor. My head wasn’t with me on the ship. The idle time and general, sweaty discomfort led my mind to wander to other things, writing projects and scripts in particular. I was wishing for nothing more than some lemonade and an internet connection to send queries and do some publication research, something I need to do very badly.
But all that changed when we went for a sunset sail. Working aloft was exactly what I needed, and when the call came to loose all sails I shot up to the top and laid on to the royal. Being up there changed the whole complexion of the day. The air was cooler, the view spectacular, and we were escorted by the playful presence of dolphins. Dolphins have been showing up fairly regularly, about once every three days or so, but these were the best yet. They were jumping clear out of the water, with their tails shaking back and forth as if they were trying to swim up into the sky, drawing ooh’s and aah’s and applause from all of us that had the puppies and captain wondering who had pooped on newspaper. I began to remember why I loved being out here so much.
Later on, after the sun had set, we went up to stow the royals and t’gallants. As a crewmate and I were stowing the royal the ship came under some squally clouds and a fresh rain began falling, pouring down for the next 90 minutes. It was a warm tropical rain, but with the sun down, and all of us sticky with sweat and grime, it was about the most refreshing experience I can ever recall having. Almost none of the crew donned foul weather gear, preferring instead to take off our shirts and soak up as much as possible.
It’s a unique feeling, being out in rain and doing nothing to avoid it. The last time for me was in Costa Rica, on a hike through the cloud forest. It’s a very elemental thing, to allow yourself to be rained on like that. I remember sitting on a boulder in the middle of the river that ran through the Talemonca valley, getting soaked and not moving for nearly an hour. I felt a self awareness there that was at once powerful and clear, but at the same time impossible to fully articulate. I felt like I was like the boulder, a part of nature – a fact we so often take for granted or avoid. The same thing tonight. I felt like I was a part of the ship. It’s almost like a small forfeiture of individual identity. Like I said, it’s hard to explain (especially without sounding to clichéd or Al Gore-ish). The main thing is thought that it was refreshing, physically and mentally.
Plus the puppies are really really cute.






April 1, 2007

3/23/07
We have been getting to have little morning sails almost every day. Today we woke at seven, ate a quick breakfast, and set sail. The trades cooperated nearly perfectly, lulling only once, and briefly. I have an unofficial post I’ve adopted when we’re underway. I lean over the rail at the foredeck, arms crossed, and lose myself in the seas.
I watch the waves roll and reach and foam and breach with valleys and peaks like a thousand mountain ranges being constantly raised up and then toppled over, new ridges pushing up to replace those that just fell.
It is hypnotizing. It gets harder each day to imagine myself living on dry land for too long.

3/25/07
Found out today that our hot dogs come from Haiti. Not good news regarding an already dubious meat.

3/29/07
Accomplishment: Today I was asked by the mate to go aloft by myself and furl the main royal, something I have never done alone before. Despite the sail being whipped around by the strong winds I did it, and it was one of my neater stows as well. The best part was when I came down. Nobody said anything. It was just expected of me to be able to do that. A minute later the mate came back to me and asked me to furl the gaff tops’le, something I have never done period, alone or not. I did it (alone) and came down to no fanfare.
It feels good to be in a place where I am pushed as hard as I push myself. I have become uneasy with accepting praise for doing what I was supposed to do. It has always left me feeling strange. Here, that doesn’t happen, though it is not because of callousness between crew. This crew is as tight a group of co-workers as I have ever come across. There is little bickering though there are many types of personalities, and it is easy to see that everyone genuinely cares for each other.

P.S. Saw a dolphin leap out of the water off our port quarter at about six this morning. Not more than 20 feet away. It was the perfect way to punctuate a morning that opened with a spectacular sunrise of pinks and purples and robin’s-egg clouds silhouetting the cliffs of the southern edge of the island. What a great job.

March 16, 2007

Rigging, Tubing, and Rope-Swinging

3/7
The past couple days of work have been great. We have been bending on sails (hooking them up to the rigging), and I have been learning a lot. Yesterday I spent over four hours aloft in the rigging, 3 1/2 of those coming on the topgallant yards, the second highest up on the masts, about 70 feet up.
Am I scared being that high up, standing on a rope, leaning over a pole and working with both my hands? You bet. It’s scary as hell. But after a while I grew used to it and it was then only slightly terrifying.
We have been downgraded from two days and on two days off, to one on and off because the schedule is getting tighter, and it is easier to keep the idle crew on stand by if they are only off one day. There may be a chance that once we start our day-sails and the charter really gets rolling we won’t have a day off for a month, which would really suck the life out of this blog. I wouldn’t be surprised either, because all of this off time is really unusual for ship life, and they may be giving it too us as a preemptive break. Who knows. The Picton Castle crew is largely in the dark regarding the details of the charter, as long as we know where we need to be and when we are good, and the next month will take care of itself.

Tubing:
Today we were given a free tubing expedition down the largest river in Dominica. It was a 6km trip, the weather was perfect, the rapids were fun, and the water felt fantastic.
However it was not without its kinks. First of all, the tubes we sat in did not lend themselves well to the human body. They were giant, over-inflated inner tubes with plywood fastened to the bottom to fend off rocks from unsuspecting tailbones, and hold in urine from unsuspecting ignoramuses (me). Your head and feet are exposed, sticking out of the center, and you end up looking like your back end got sucked up into a giant vacuum cleaner. Your arms are completely useless. They provide a paddle, but all it is good for is thrusting yourself into a vertigo-inducing spin. We ricocheted from rock to rock with our heads flopping against the tubes like old tits. Admittedly, I am not the most agile or dexterous member of the human race, but this was a new low in physical confusion for me. These tubes could render even the most graceful ungainly and awkward. Michelle Kwan could sit in one and she would instantly become George Costanza.
The main damper on the trip, though, was the group from the cruise ship that was with us. There were about 40 of them, and they were a classic display of what is known overseas as “the ugly American.” They were loud, obnoxious, drunk, vulgar, rude, and generally acted like they owned the gig. I wish we could have eliminated all the life-vests and river guides because it would have been a spectacular experiment in Darwinism.
Their ringleader, a doughy guy with squinty eyes, was singing songs with words like (this is not made up) “drunk drunk drunk drunk drunk drunk drunk,” discussing the genitalia of various animals and of his friends, and shouting to his sidekick, a slightly older version of himself but with a less stupid face, whom he warmly referred to as Captain Dumb-Ass. He did all this in what to him probably was his 12-inch voice but was in reality his 12-daiquiris voice. Later on I had the unique pleasure of floating next to him. He started talking to me about having kids, and how I was still young, but he waited till he was 27 to have kids and now he has four.
“I’m 37 now,” he informed me.
“Oh really,” I replied, “I would have never guessed it.” I rolled my eyes.
His face lit up. “Thanks!” he belched. He was genuinely flattered, if only erroneously, as his surprised humility regarding his looks—hairline, wrinkles, jowls and the like, had coupled with the month’s ration of alcohol he’d probably had for breakfast to prevent him from considering that not his boyish good looks but his behavior might be a more effective disguise for a man supposedly raising four children and nearing forty years old. Judging by his conduct alone one could have realistically pegged him between 21 and sophomore in high-school.
After the ride we all headed to the tube station to rinse off, pack up, and load back into our buses. I avoided the mob that had surrounded the bar, was slurping down all the complimentary rum punch and conveniently missing the giant red TIPS canister. Stupid-face saw me alone, assumed it was just some oversight of mine, and ambled over my way for another conversation. He asked me what I was going to do when I was done with all this sailing stuff, and was shocked when I said I may never be done with it. He figured I would naturally be itching to come back and start living the good life like him. It was a fantastic signal to me that I am right where I want to be.

3/9
Yesterday, more work aloft. This time we were on the royal, the topmost yard, about 80 feet high. I have learned a lot about what it takes to bend on sails, and feel fairly confident in my abilities to do so again with minimal direction. I have learned a lot about rigging in the past few days, but I still have a long way to go. Two percent may be double of one percent, but it is still not very much.
One of the crew members told me she was jealous that I got to help bend on sails, a job she claimed to absolutely love. I apologized, but I think her enthusiasm, while I admire it, can only be reconciled with rationality by attributing it to her being a bit of a brown-noser. Not to say she is, she may indeed love it as much as she claims. But I, in all my love of the sea, and sailing, and ship work, did not love it. I didn’t mind it, but I didn’t love it either. I would equate it to painting the house or mowing the lawn. I don’t especially love doing those things, though they aren’t bad and do have some enjoyable qualities, I love the results. I love having the ship ready to sail, and I put my best effort to help make her that way, but by no means was it an exercise in pure bliss, though the time did pass quickly.What I love is feeling the strain on the rigging, and the speed of the hull through the water kick up when you sheet in, trimming your sails tighter, grabbing the wind and really running with it. No exhaust fumes, no motors, just whistling wind and breaking seas. That is what I love. And I do whatever it takes to make that happen, including acrobatics 80 feet up.
This morning we heard on the radio a local debate that has the Dominican government at a standstill. There is heavy pressure from both sides as to whether or not they should approve the installation of an oil refinery on the island. On the one hand, it would create jobs and be a boost to the economy. On the other hand, it would likely hamper tourism and the locals wouldn’t be able to exclaim “Lovely Dominica” quite as enthusiastically as before. If you’ve ever driven past a town with oil refineries, you know what I am talking about. The air is green, and the town has a powerful stink. Not too many people would be interested in visiting Dominica when she has transformed herself from pristine and largely unindustrialized island with green jungles and beautiful coral reefs to a stinky, hazy island, largely skipped over by cruise ships and divers.
Plus, judging from how many refineries have been shutting down in Texas and so, added to the upswing in alternative fuels, and it looks to be a temporary economic solution at best. I have to think, that despite its positive side effects, brining money into the economy and creating more jobs, it doesn’t seem worth the environmental impact and I’m not convinced that it will still be a booming business beyond 50 or so years. There has to be more creative ways of marketing the eco-tourism and relative un-commercialized feel of the island to create those same jobs and bring in that same money.
A lot of my thinking is shaped by comparing Nicaragua to Costa Rica. Nicaragua had the booming logging industry and such, and is now somewhat of a wasteland. Their neighbor, Costa Rica, stopped short of that industrialization, and catered to the eco-tourist, and has saved most their pristine jungles and wildlife and is a very popular location for adventurers and tourists. You can literally see the border between the two countries because on one side there is forest, and on the other side there is mud. Dominica seems to be facing a similar fork. (My two cents)
It’s interesting to hear about the local politics though. Not too different from what we hear in the states, either. Global warming, protecting the environment, and building economy at any cost—the blessings of civilization!
Also, continuing with the theme of Dominican current events, there has been a nasty little virus going around the island, and it has been ripping through the charter’s main offices downtown. We are working really hard to keep it off the ship, but it is tricky because the symptoms only show up AFTER you are contagious. It is airborne, also. It’s nothing too serious, but when the symptoms hit you are basically bed ridden with joint and muscle pain for two to four days.The funny thing about it is that it showed up on the island a couple weeks ago, coinciding with Venezuelan dictator, Hugo Chavez, who was visiting to build bonds between Dominica and warning them about evil dictatorships and empires. I assume he meant us, but he could have also been making a joke and referring back to himself as well. It’s funny though because Chavez is generally reviled in America and upon coming to Dominica, where he is welcomed in goodwill, he ends up making them sick too. He seems to have the same affect on enemies and allies alike. But then I suppose subtlety has never been a strength of his.

3/10
Today was a day for naturalists. This morning, while aloft furling sails, we saw a pod of dolphins come to check out the ship and they hung around for about an hour, playing, and even once leaping completely out of the water (Of course, that was only AFTER I had put away my camera). I took a dozen or so photos, but these are the best ones:

Then tonight at about seven o’clock I spotted in the black seas a huge school of small blue fish with one or two flashing white with electricity here and there, twisting and throbbing in a defensive maneuver. Sure enough, a few moments later, a massive fish, about four or five feet long, shot through the frenzied school and snatched a mouthful. I could see its counterparts circling below. It was a dance between predator and prey I had seen many times on the Discovery Channel, but seeing it in person was far more satisfying.
I also had my own personal encounter with the way of nature in the form of pecking orders. Today I had a few brain farts, nothing of consequence, just minor breaches in common sense. But I caught heat for it all. Not serious, but enough to know that I needed to do better, and was being watched. Though, rest assured, I didn’t do irreparable damage to my career. The first mate and I had a good laugh about it later on in the evening. I think those things are things that never stop, it’s just that as you put in more and more time, you have fewer and fewer people ready to come down on you for slight missteps. Although, at some point, I hope that ship-sense becomes common sense, and I can do better to avoid those dumb little mistakes.

3/15
I’ve been here for nearly a month now, and today has been the best day so far. This morning we rose at five and set off for a quick sail, all our canvas set. The weather was nearly ideal, with a clear sunrise over the island and friendly trade-winds to scoot us along through capping seas.

Though the outing was brief it was refreshing, like diving into cool water on a hot day – which is exactly what we did next.
On the Picton Castle we have a device called a rope swing, and what it is is a rope hanging from the end of the fore-course yard, and you swing on it. It’s a blast. We swam and played in the water for a good piece of the afternoon before breaking into watches and dividing up for time on shore of which I am the recipient of none (though no big deal, as our mooring will allow plenty of time for reading and writing which is mostly what I do on days off anyhow).
Some pictures of me going off the rope swing:

Nadja, Deckhand:

John, Deckhand:

Finn, Assistant Engineer/Deckhand after getting caught on a mooring line:

It was funny because that happened right after we were telling Fredrick, a new crew member, how easy it was, and that he had nothing to worry about. Then Finn, one of the seasoned veterans on the ship, takes a turn. Just as he is hitting the bottom of the swing the ship strains against the mooring and the line rises out of the water taking out the slack, hitting him right in the stomach. He was fine, but Fredrick was a bit discouraged. Though, to his credit, Fredrick took a turn on the swing and did fine. Thanks to Katie for taking those pictures.
Things with the charter are beginning to get into full swing and start officially tomorrow, causing bit more of an obstacle to my already irregular access to internet.

March 4, 2007

Doldrums and Rainbows

3/4

The past few days have been slow and difficult. There hasn’t been as much ship-work to do, so we have been standing by, basically idle for most of the day with spurts of work here and there. Not only that, but a cloud has fallen over much of the crew, and people seem a bit gloomy and disconnected, the results of the bizarre schedule and disrupted vibe onboard due to all the unorthodox requirements of our charter.

Also contributing to the difficulty of the last few days was the lack of a discussion buddy.

I’ve had a couple really great conversations here or there, but the squally demeanor onboard has all but severed the lines of recreational communication. So I’ve had lots of time to myself, which I normally love, but I’m surrounded by new friends and I’m really itching to get to know them better.

The past few days, if anything, have been a good lesson in patience. Not only am I stalled in my relationship building efforts, but the lack of ship’s work has slowed me in the process mastering all the skills involved in sailing, something I’d like to have done by say, Thursday.

However, with all the downtime I’ve had in the past few days I’ve spent a lot of my time in prayer, reading, listening to music, and in meditation, and it has been fantastic. I’ve also gotten some work done on a project for a friend that I’ve been behind on. (Sorry Charles, almost finished with it)

Plus, G.A.P.=God answers prayers, I’ve found a shipmate who has noticed the same bummed-out-ness of the crew and we had a great conversation last night, so hopefully it is the first of many (it really was an answer to a prayer, because for the days prior I was constant asking God for some meaningful interaction).

Also, today I finished my open water SCUBA certification which I am really excited about. Even better, I found out that the charter has a hotel booked up for their other group members, and the hotel provides with diving services for its clientele. One of the charter’s big-wigs said we can get free equipment and dive trips if we just mention the right names, so that’s pretty cool too.

Only one picture this time. A couple days back we were motoring down the southwestern corner of the island. The afternoon was gusty and rainy and just as we were passing by a quiet coastal village nestled in the green valley a rainbow materialized, framing the whole thing too perfectly to pass without a snapshot. My kindest sympathies to all locked in wintry mires or Oklahoma City in general, here it is: